The asian olfactory scene keeps gaining visibility, yet remains largely under the radar in Europe. Ahead of the Asia Perfume Show, Dao Nguyen, host of the Smell Talks, explains why it’s time to move past the clichés and approach these creations with fresh eyes.
Interview by Guillaume Tesson
You’ll be taking the reins of the Smell Talks again in September. What makes you want to get back on stage?
The Asia Perfume Show is in a category of its own. People don’t come just to discover brands or build their network. They come to understand what’s transforming perfumery right now. I’d like it to become a must-attend event for anyone interested in the creativity of tomorrow, not just asian perfumery.
Why do you think Asia deserves our full attention today?
Because many people still look at these brands through the wrong lens. We often assume they’re following Western models, when in fact they’re already inventing their own vocabulary. Creativity no longer springs solely from perfumery’s historical cradles. From Seoul to Bangkok, from Shanghai to Jakarta, new voices are asserting themselves with a very strong identity.
Your background places you at the crossroads of several cultures. How does that shape your perspective?
I grew up between several worlds. Perfume was part of my daily life. My mother wore Yves Saint-Laurent’s Y and Miss Dior. But Vietnamese cuisine also shaped my sensibility enormously. It taught me early on the art of pairings, contrasts, and nuances. Later, my experience at L’Oréal, Clarins, and Bulgari, followed by founding my agency Essenzia by Dao in 2013, through which I help develop perfume and beauty brands for young chinese consumers, led me to observe asian markets through a cultural, anthropological, and strategic lens all at once. My job, ultimately, is to spot what’s emerging before it becomes obvious.
How do you put together twenty-six Smell Talks without falling into a string of brand presentations?
Precisely by refusing that logic. Each session is designed as a conversation, not a promotional platform. There is a great deal of editorial work upstream: understanding the brands, their trajectories, and their distinctive traits, then creating exchanges that give the audience real keys to understanding. What interests me: ideas, intersections, and debate.
What discoveries do you expect from this edition?
I want to showcase scenes that are still largely under the radar, particularly in Southeast Asia. There is a lot of talk about China or Korea, but Thailand, Indonesia, and Vietnam are seeing houses of remarkable creativity emerge. Some are reinventing brand storytelling, while others are experimenting with new business models. This diversity deserves to be better known in Europe.
What mindset should people adopt to discover these perfumeries?
Be curious and accept setting aside your certainties. We all tend to analyze creations through our own cultural references. Yet olfactory families, narratives, and even the way of smelling differ from one country to another. Coming with an open mind means giving yourself the chance to be surprised. That is often where the best discoveries happen.
Do you have a ritual before going on stage?
None, apart from thorough preparation. Thanks to that, I am ready for the big day. And I approach the exercise like a teacher excited for the first day of school!
