Meet Manuel Mathieu, artist and creator of the brand he named after himself.
Could you briefly introduce your brand?
Manuel Mathieu Parfums is the olfactory extension of my practice as a multidisciplinary artist. After working extensively with painting, sculpture, installation, and video, I ventured into perfumery to explore scent as a medium for storytelling and emotional resonance. Collaborating with master perfumer Juliette Karagueuzoglou, from IFF, I launched this debut fragrance collection, Chapter 1, featuring three unisex scents: Dsire, île noire, and ECCCO.
In your opinion, what makes it unique?
I think that what sets Manuel Mathieu Parfums apart is its fusion of artistic exploration and perfumery. Each scent is deeply personal. A sculptural and emotional gesture anchored in my personal history as well as collective memory. The handcrafted bottles I made from a clay mold further emphasize the commitment to artistry and individuality
Île noire is a tribute to Haiti’s landscape, blending notes like oakwood and tobacco to evoke maturity and depth. The first perfume we created for Chapter 1, it is an exploration of my roots through distance and diaspora. It carries the weight of soil, salt, and florals in mourning, echoing my exploration of how form emerges from emotion, how memory can become matter through modes of apparition.
ECCCO is the most enigmatic of the three. A fragrance that behaves like a ritual or an altar, evoking smoky leather and vanilla notes representing the aftermath of a fictional volcanic eruption. I wanted to conjure the feeling of a volcanic terrain still marked by fire : dense, mineral, almost ancestral. It’s an olfactive equivalent to my paintings, layered like skin, charged with the invisible presence of history and resilience.
Dsire, by contrast, is about sensual memories from my past. It is an elusive, wounded desire tied to youth, the tropics, and the memories. It plays with a scent that is luminous but not innocent, filled with tension between tenderness and loss.
What key moments are you planning during the Grasse Perfume Week?
A key moment for me and my team will be the introduction of this olfactive project as an artistic gesture. This aims to highlight the deep connection of olfaction as an art form and highlighting the metaphysics carried by scents.
What does the city of Grasse, the cradle of perfumery, mean to you?
To me, Grasse underscores the connection I built with the brand to the epicenter of perfumery. Given that the fragrances are produced in Grasse, this is both symbolic and practical, while celebrating the brand’s roots in traditional French perfumery, and the relevance of craftsmanship.
Has the city played a role in your journey or in your brand’s creative universe?
Absolutely. The collaboration with Juliette, based in Grasse, was instrumental in bringing my vision to life. The city’s legacy in perfumery, combined with its resources and expertise, allowed us to create fragrances that are both deeply personal and universally resonant .
What are your expectations regarding your participation in our event?
Participating in Grasse Perfume Week offers an opportunity to showcase this project of fusion of art and scent to a discerning audience. It’s a chance for us to engage with fellow perfumers and industry professionals, fostering dialogue and appreciation for innovative approaches to fragrance. The event serves as a platform to highlight our commitment to storytelling through scent and its ties to the heritage of Grasse.